The Southeast

AUGUSTA Donna Ina

Contrada Faro Santa Croce, 96011 Tel 0931-983 422

Diners at Donna Ina select fish from a market-style display to be grilled, steamed in seawater or poached with oranges. Antipasti include raw fish, grilled shrimp or classic mixed fried-fish platter. For main course, try the lasagne with swordfish sauce, the fish ravioli or the penne with vegetables. There are 70 Sicilian wines on the list.

BUCCHERI U Locale

Via Dusmet 14, 96010 Tel 0931-873 923

A handy spot for sustenance for those who are visiting the Akrai or Pantalica archaeological sites, this family-run trattoria offers meals using seasonal produce and game typical of the hillside forests, like wild boar. Pappardelle (broad pasta ribbons) with roast peppers and tomatoes is another popular choice. Closed Tue; Jul.

CHIARAMONTE GULFI Il Tegamino

Contrada Ponte 35, 97010 Tel 0932-921 333

“The Casserole Pot” has a casual atmosphere and offers mainly fresh fish. The Tagliatelle all’astice (pasta ribbons with lobster) is perfect, with just the lobsters’ own juices as pasta sauce to enhance the flavours. They also make good mixed roast-fish and shellfish platter. Pizza serves as a hearty starter or a simple dinner. Closed Tue.

CHIARAMONTE GULFI Majore

Via Martiri Ungaresi 12, 97010 Tel 0932-928 019

Set up on the hill in the town of Chiaramonte Gulfi, this restaurant is unique in that, from appetizers to desserts, the main theme on the menu is pork in all its forms: as salami, in aspic, roasted and sliced, in sauces, in a risotto. No doubt, pork ends up as strutto (shortening) in dessert crusts or cookies, or as gelatin.

MARINA DI RAGUSA Da Serafino

Lungomare Doria, 97010 Tel 0932-239 522

A beach restaurant since 1953, Da Serafino is a summer tradition in Marina di Ragusa. The restaurant has its own private beach facilities, so you can rent chairs and an umbrella for the day and enjoy some of loveliest water in Sicily. The menu of fish-based courses is simple but expertly prepared. They also make pizza. Closed Oct-Mar.

MODICA Fattoria delle Torri

Vico Napolitano 14, 97015 Tel 0932-751 286

This former 18th century warehouse is now a restaurant, wine bar and cellar offering dishes like terrine of aubergine with basil; ravioli with fava beans and herbed ricotta; and rabbit with truffles. Some desserts are based on the chocolate of Modica, a relative of Mexican chocolate. Extensive wine list. Closed Mon; late Jun-early Jul.

NOTO Dal Carmine

Via Ducezio 1, 96017 Tel 0931-838 705

The menu in this simple family-run trattoria is based on the bounty of southern Sicily’s hills. Pasta dishes include ricotta filled ravioli with pork sauce, and tagliatelle capricciose (pasta with fresh vegetables). Rabbit alla stimpirata has sweet-and-sour sauce with seasonal vegetables. Cannoli and cake are two of the dessert options.

PALAZZOLO ACREIDE Anapo da Nunzio

Corso Vittorio Emanuele Tel 0931-882 286

This trattoria in the centre of town is a handy stop after touring the archaeological excavations at Akrai. Cheese is a local speciality, so begin or end your meal with a cheese platter to sample provola and pecorino (sheep cheese, fresh or aged). Ravioli filled with ricotta is an excellent menu staple. Closed Mon.

RAGUSA Baglio La Pergola

Piazza Luigi Sturzo 6, 97100 Tel 0932-686 430

This elegant restaurant in the Baroque part of town features traditional cusine with some new twists, like antipasti of grilled cheese with peppers and cinnamon, or macaroni made from spelt flour, pistachios, and shrimp. Fish might be served with lemon and mint, and accompanied by caponata (aubergine/eggplant stew). Closed Tue; mid-Aug.

RAGUSA IBLA Duomo

Via Capitano Bocchieri 31, 97100 Tel 0932-651 265

One of Italy’s top restaurants is located in a Baroque palazzo near the Duomo. Tradition informs contemporary and innovative dishes with international flair: cous cous with pistachios and mint paired with fish soap and harissa (a spicy North African sauce); or pork in a sauce of cocoa beans, legumes and spinach. Closed Mon, Sun eve; Oct.

RAGUSA IBLA Locanda Don serafino

Via Orfanotrofio 39, 97100 Tel 0932-248 778

An 18th century palazzo hosts one of Ragusa’s best restaurants. Contemporary variations on traditional recipes include red mullet stuffed with courgette, baked ricotta with fried chicory, and lasagne made with cocoa filled with ricotta. There are also elaborate desserts, flavourful mini cookies and 1.000 wines on the list. Closed Tue.

ROSOLINI Locanda del Borgo

Via Controscieri 11, 97100 Tel 0931-850 514

This restaurant occupies the former offices of the 18th century Prince of Platamone, with their two cupolas and original frescoes. The covered terrace offers a view of the hills, and the cusine uses traditional ingredients that had almost been forgotten in new, imaginative ways. About 300 wines feature on the list. Closed Tue, some Sun.

SYRACUSE La Medusa da Kamel

Via Santa Teresa 21, 96100 Tel 0931-614 03

Near the ancient spring of Fonte Aretusa, in Ortygia’s historic centre, this restaurant specializes in Sicilian seafood. On Thursday evenings the Tunisian chef offers a menu that features fish or lamb cous cous with other traditional North African accompaniments; there are also various fish pastas and mixed grilled fish. Closed Mon.

SYRACUSE La Spiaggetta

Viale del Lido 473, Fontane Bianche, 96010 Tel 0931-790 334

All dining rooms, terrace and gardens have a magnificent view of the sea. Fish is prepared in various forms, and specialities include zuppa di pesce (fish soap), spaghetti with sea urchins, linguine with lobster, swordfish involtini (roulades) or fish with Syracuse-style sauce of tomatoes, capers, olives and garlic. Closed Tue Oct-Mar.

SYRACUSE Jonico ‘a rutta ‘e ciauli

Riviera Dionisio il Grande 194, 96100 Tel 0931-655 40

This restaurant is perched on a cliff and offers alfresco dining. One of their specialities comes from a humble tradition: pasta ca muddica is pasta mixed with olive oil, breadcrumbs, anchovies and red peppers – a tasty option today, but a necessity in days gone by, when no meat, cheese, eggs or other fish were easily available. Closed Sun; mid Feb, mid July; Christmas.

SYRACUSE Don Camillo

Via Maestranza 46, 96100 Tel 0931-671 33

Barrel-vaulted ceilings and stone walls stacked with wine bottles set the stage for the refined cooking here. Soap of newborn red mullet in a delicate broth, spaghetti with sea urchins and shrimp, and grilled tuna encrusted with black pepper are some of the dishes on offer. Excellent selection of cheeses. Closed Sun, mid Feb, mid July; Christmas.

VITTORIA Sakalleo

Piazza Cavour 12, Località Scoglitti, 97019 Tel 0932-871 688

Sakalleo is the name of a boat that was used for sponge fishing. Recipes at this restaurant on the coast south of Gela maintain the old culinary traditions and are based on fish brought in from one of the owner’s three boats. There is no menu to speak of, just what is caught that morning. The wine list includes about 80 labels.

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4 Responses to “The Southeast”

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  3. Townsend scrive:

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  4. roclafamilia scrive:

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